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Snow & Ice
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The orange area is the teeny piece of Antarctica I 'explored' with the Quark cruises
The Continent  

The Antarctic Peninsula is a a long thread of land, about 500km long, which snakes up from the continent itself. It is divided into Grahamland to the north, where the ships go, and Palmerland to the south.

The Antarctic Peninsula is technically sub-Antarctic and over half of it lies above the Antarctic Circle. This means it is a little warmer than the rest of the continent. Snow and ice connects it to the rest of Antarctica, but if all the snow as to be removed from Antarctica, Western Antarctica would be revealed as an island archipelago.

Argentinean base, Esperanza

Esperanza
Argentinean base

Esperanza lies right at the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, nestled at the back of Hope Bay. Hope Bay was named so by Norkenskjold when three of this men wintered there in 1903.

Esperanza is typical of South American bases in that they invite families to stay down there - unlike the stiff and starchy conditions in the American, British and Australian bases... Eight children were born there in the 1980's and at any given time, there are about 10-20 children there with their families. They have internet and radio access - at the expense of television!

Fog bank along Andvord Bay

Fogbank
Andvord Bay

January 2003 has some truly spectacular weather. On this glorious tranquil day, I watched a fogbank toy for several hours with the glaciated terrain on the southern side of Andvord Bay.

The Chilean base, Gonzalez Videla

Gonzalez Videla
Chilean base

This chilean base lies between Andvord Bay and Paradise Bay and is perched on a rocky spit called Waterboat Point. Waterboat Point lays claim to a bit of grossly underappreciated history. Two young lads from the British IMperial Expedition, 1920-21, stayed there for a complete winter, collecting records on the nesting penguins which are still a valuable resource to this day.

The Chileans began occupation at Waterboat Point in 1950, and have summered there ever since. Although the Chileans love visitors and extend a warm welcome, this penguin-drenched bit of landscape is a nightmare for visiting ships as the passengers seem to unavoidably collect more penguin poo here than anywhere else...

Snow and ice reflections, Paradise Bay

Snow reflections
Paradise Bay

On that wonderful day in January 2003... The waters were velvet blue, the snow was blindingly white, the rocks were stark contrast... Paradise Bay lived up to its name.

Passengers admiring scenery in Paradise Bay

Passengers viewing Paradise Bay
On the top deck of the Orlova

The balmy spectacular conditions had everyone jostling for vantage spots to drink in the gorgeous vista before them.

Me steering a zodiac raft around Paradise Bay

Driving a zodiac
Paradise Bay

Ok... One of the perks of working on a cruise ship... Paradise Bay is a geologist's dream with active crackling glaciers, copper mineralisation, icebergs and popping sea ice. It is also a joy for the passengers who not only get 360 degrees of spectacular scenery but may get a chance to get close to whales or seals pulled out on sea ice floes.

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