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Opportunities to land on Antarctica in the Peninsula region are
few and far between. Most of the Antarctic Peninsula is covered
by enormous volumes of snow and glacial ice, which drape steep rocky
cliffs. Where rock are exposed, they usually plummet at prohibitively
steep angles into the water. There are very few places where the
land is flat enough to permit a landing, and some of these areas
are protected.
However, one is not going to sail all this way and be thwarted!
There are two places commonly visited by the cruise ships where
you can walk on the Antarctic Continent - Neko Harbour and Paradise
Bay.
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A splash of sun and snow
Arctowski Peninsula
The first thing that hits you when you cruise into the Palmer Archipelago
and gaze at the Antarctic Peninsula is the snow! No trip to the
Rockies or the Alps can prepare you for the volume of snow here!
Although the snow in the Antarctic Peninsula probably rarely exceeds
a 100m depth, it is mind-boggling to realise the snow can reach
5km in height over Eastern Antarctica!
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Moody reflections
Neko Harbour
An inversion layer usually hovers down the western side of the
Antarctic Peninsula. However, sunlight will creep under these clouds
as the summer progresses and with calm conditions, the Antarctic
Peninsula can reveal a mysterious and moody atmosphere.
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Forbidden Plateau revealed
Neko Harbour
Quite often, clouds will shroud these mountains to about 100m above
sea level. And then on some days, they lift! On this day in late
February, 2002, the clouds lifted enough to reveal the Forbidden
Plateau seperating eastern and western Antarctic Peninsula; next
stop: Weddell Sea!
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Icebergs
Neko Harbour
As the clouds lift, they fragment, letting in beams of sunlight,
throwing luminescent pearly white light of snow and ice
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Abandoned (but functional) Argentinean Survival Shack
Neko Harbour
At the start of 2002, the Argentineans were battling to save their
savings and economy. All Antarctic operations ceased immediately.
However, their legacy lives on in Antarctica, and this is a survival
shack at Neko Harbour, still fully stocked and ready to offer shelter
to anyone who becomes stranded in a bad storm.
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View from Above
Paradise Bay
A hill above the landing site in Paradise Bay offers up spectacular
views of Paradise Bay itself. Even if overcast, reflected sunlight
on the edges of the cloud cover can cause the snow to a glow under
its grey canopy.
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Snow filled bay
Paradise Bay
...And if a sunbeam breaks through the clouds, the snow will glow
in shadow and luminesce in sunlight!
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View from the sea
Palmerland from Bellingshausen Sea
Heading further south, the inversion layer tended to break up late
in the day (for us anyway!), revealing the magnificent steep mountains,
completely blanketed in snow and glacial ice.
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